Content Sections-- Listed Separately Below:

1. Selling a Motorcycle , What is its value?

2. Professional Motorcycle Repair Options

    2a How Do I get Parts for Old Motorcycles?

3. Buying a Classic Motorcycle.

4. Learning to Ride—Be Smart About it!

5. Getting a Non Running Motorcycle to Start

6. Shipping a Motorcycle

7. What Kind of Miles Per Gallon can I expect out of a Vintage Bike?  

  ** Disclaimer.  The information contained herein is offered as free advice.  Please use your own discretion in choosing  to follow it.  I will assume no liability for any action taken on your part concerning this information.  If you have further questions. Please consult a mechanical professional **

  1. 1. Selling a Motorcycle , What is its Value?  

How do I determine what a classic motorcycle is worth?  

         I no longer give estimates of a motorcycles worth.  I get way too many each week.  Hopefully the following will help you value your motorcycle:

       This is a tough question because there are so many variables.  There are some price guides out there, but they are sooooo far off the real market because of the small sample size they use in their surveys that no one who is knowledgeable of the market really considers them to have any validity.  No two old bikes, even the exact same year make and model are truly alike.  Physical condition, mileage, prior maintenance (or butchery thereof), and your level of trust in the person selling it-- all effect the pricing.  Also what a bike sells for also depends on where it is located.  Large metro area will bring more than say, Bismarck , North Dakota .  Shipping a bike has become VERY expensive, so distance and locality really counts.  

       My motorcycle web page pricing may not be a very good guide for you.  I spend a lot of time and money locating, buying, and preparing for sale the bikes you see.  Because of my web page and advertising, I get thousands of specialized buyer web hits a day that you will never duplicate in your marketing efforts.   People who buy my bikes are usually those that have been looking for a very long time for a very special bike.  Consequently unless you have a very long time to wait, you  will not likely not be able to sell your bike at the price level that  you may see on my site.

      You can check websites like EBAY, www.cycletrader.com or www.craigslist.com to get a general idea of the value of your motorcycle.  Remember that the asking price is rarely the selling price.  If your motorcycle is not complete and currently in good running condition, you can cut the price as much as half.  In reality an old motorcycle is only worth what someone will offer you for it! You can only find this out by testing the market which can be a long frustrating process.

Do you buy motorcycles?

1. Yes, occasionally, but I have to buy them at a steep discount because who knows what it may take to get them running properly --and more importantly, I hate to work for free.  If you are interested in selling your motorcycle, please send me close up digital pictures and tell me what you want to get out of it. 

 What is the best way to sell a classic motorcycle?  

A.  I am not certain of the best way in your particular case, but one of the worst ways is to advertise them in the local newspaper.  People generally want  newer motorcycles and have little appreciation of the value of a classic bike. You usually don’t get many calls or a very good price.

Ebay. There are positives and negatives to selling on Ebay.. 

The Good:  Ebay gives the widest audience.  I have seen some motorcycles sell for great prices, and I have seen some that didn’t bring what they were worth.  Those that are in near perfect condition can bring premium prices.  Otherwise they are often lost in the shuffle.  However, it is certainly better than selling in the newspaper.

The Bad:  If you aren’t a current EBAY user, there is a raft of information, including bank accounts etc that you must divulge online before you can even get registered to sell.   Sometimes people steal your ebay account and cause you all kinds of grief.  I recently had it happen to me!  It is your worst nightmare.  Someone hacked my account and listed a $1500 sewing machine.  (SEWING MACHINES come on!) By the time I got to look at my account, they had four other similar listings on a 24 hour with a “buy it now” option. People had already bid on them.  It was absolutely horrifying!  Try getting someone at Ebay to talk to you!  It appears as if Ebay has taken care of the problem, but boy am I gun shy now!

Also, you must understand how EBAY works.  You pay your listing fee no matter what. There are a lot of dead beat bidders.  They win the auction, but never show up to buy the product.  You still have to pay Ebay for completed sale, or start to argue with them about it.  It is a big Hassle and potentially expensive to re-list. I have seen bikes that had to be relisted 3 times to get a real buyer to show up and pay for it.

My advice is that if you decide to sell on Ebay, reject bidders that have feedback scores below 10, and require a good sized deposit to be paid within 5 days, or threaten to give bad feedback.

As alternatives, you can try  www.cycletrader.com   It can be expensive, but it gets good national coverage.  Also Walneck’s Classic Cycle Trader Magazine(associated with cycletrader.com) gets good newsstand coverage.  You can also try www.craigslist.com in your area.  However, you usually get the most "bottom feeder" buyers and your chances of selling a classic bike for your price there is not good.  

2. Professional Motorcycle Repair Options

Do you do repair work on motorcycles for people?

A.  No.  I spend way too much time fixing up the ones I have.

I cannot get any of the major dealerships to work on my motorcycle.  They say it is too old.

A.  Yes, unfortunately, most dealerships will not work on anything older than 10 years.  Look for an independent motorcycle shop and tell them the year and make of bike. Sometimes you can find an independent shop that will work on anything.  Most shops do not want to take the project on, because they have such difficulty diagnosing and then finding parts to complete the repair.  Your best bet is to join a club like the Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club.  Once you get connected, members can often point you in the right direction. You can go directly to www.vjmc.org  You can sign up online with Paypal.  If you sign up please list me,  David, member #4720,  referred you.  Otherwise, see my Section 5 below on the steps you can take to get an old bike running.  

2 a.  How do I get parts for old motorcycles?

A.     Some parts are easier to obtain than others.  Engine parts, drive train, and cables are often available.  Sometimes even the major manufacturers can surprise you by still having some very old parts in stock.  Check there first.  Gas tanks, plastic and body parts are VERY Difficult to find and even harder to match on color.  Ebay seems to be the best bet, but sometimes you have to wait months to see what you want to buy.  Please be careful, parts are often improperly advertised, and even a part that fits a particular motorcycle may not fit y yours because the Japanese sometimes substituted different parts during the same model year.  I have links on my webpage for good suppliers.  A really good option is to join the Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club.  www.vjmc.org  For a $25 investment you get a beautiful full color magazine bi-monthly that is chock full of information and technical tips.  Also you get free buy/sell ads that run both in the magazine and online.   Tell them that David, member #4720 referred you.  

3. Buying a Motorcycle         

What is the best way to buy a used motorcycle?

1. A good way is to buy it from a dealer who will give you a warranty—

Unfortunately most will not.  The next best way is to buy it from an individual that is trustworthy where you can actually go and see the motorcycle.  Take a knowledgeable friend with you.  Do not be surprised if they do not let you take a test ride because there is considerable liability involved.  DO  NOT RIDE ANY MOTORCYCLE FOR ANY DISTANCE WITH OLD TIRES, EVEN IF THEY LOOK GOOD!   Rubber deteriorates and that tire is spinning around at hundreds of RPMS you do not want to take the chance of a blow out.

What about buying a bike online?

1. The biggest problem is that you cannot get a look at it before you buy it.  Closeup digital pictures help, but it is still not like looking directly at the motorcycles.  Also sometimes you get caught up in a bidding frenzy and pay too much for something you really don’t know much about.   Unfortunately Ebay is a real gamble.  It seems like people specialize in taking tantalizing distant pictures in really bad light.  The actual product you pick up can really be a disappointment.  Consequently, bid with caution.  Read about my recent ebay experience in the “selling your motorcycle” section above.

          I want a good looking bike to match my memories.  Should I buy a classic bike in the condition that I want, or should I try to buy one that has potential but that I can fix up and restore myself?  

A.  Unless you are very mechanically inclined, skillful in the art of paint/ body work AND have a good source of parts and lots of cash, you will usually spend a lot more money and time trying to restore it yourself.  You will drive yourself crazy, it will cost you A LOT MORE than you planned, and the end product is usually not what you thought it would be.  

I want to buy a motorcycle.  I will be using it for serious transportation.  Should I buy a newer bike, or a classic bike?

      A.  If you will be counting on your bike for basic and especially high speed transportation you should probably the newer bike.  I am not saying that a well maintained classic bike is unsafe for riding..  If they have good tires, brakes, and regular maintenance they are very suitable for most any kind of riding.  However, there have been major breakthroughs in engineering and technology, handling and braking that make a newer motorcycle safer than a classic bike.  In my estimation, classic bikes should be ridden and enjoyed, but not used for everyday transportation.  

4. Learning to Ride - Be Smart About it. 

What is the best way to learn how to ride a motorcycle?

A.     Absolutely the best way to learn is to take a Motorcycle Safety Foundation Class.  They are offered in all states.  http://www.msf-usa.org/  It is inexpensive, they provide a motorcycle that fits you, and they teach you not only the physical side of operating a motorcycle, but also the mental part-- how to position yourself in traffic so that you can stay safe on the streets.  All you need is a helmet and over the ankle shoes.   

      Another alternative to get started is with a small, off road motorcycle and a large enough safe area off road to ride it-- that is a great way to learn clutch, shifting, and basic handling.  Wear a helmet long pants and boots.  Also expect you may fall off once or twice as you are learning.

      An organized way to learn to ride on the dirt is the MSF Dirt Riding School they have a website  http://www.dirtbikeschool.com/dbsloc.html  and locations in most states.  They will even provide you a motorcycle to ride.

     I have never ridden a motorcycle, I want to buy one, but I want to get a smaller one to learn.  However, everyone tells me that I will soon want to trade up, so why not get the bigger one to begin with?

       A. Do not buy too large a bike too soon.  It can be hazardous to your health and will discourage you.  Get a good safe used bike that fits you.  You need to be able to have your feet flat on the ground when you are sitting on the machine.  Unless you are a very large person, all brands make a 250cc starter motorcycle which is great to learn on.  You can always sell it later, and you won’t lose too much in the process.   See the information on the MSF course listed above. After taking the course you will have a much better idea of the size and type of motorcycle you will want to buy.    

5. My old motorcycle is not Running, Help!  

I am, at best, an average mechanic, so it  is possible that a professional mechanic might have a little different perspective.  However, here is the free advice, it is definitely worth the price it is costing you. 

To begin, buy or get a Model Specific Repair Manual. If  you can get an OEM factory manual that is best.  As an alternative, Clymer's has an extensive collection.  Actually, many large city libraries even have copies for your particular model. 

**Note all Japanese Motorcycles use Metric tools** Use plastic gloves and eye protection. No smoking and keep open flames away from your work area!

1.       First check and make sure that it has proper oil level in the crankcase.  Almost all motorcycles have a dip stick or a "sight glass" to determine the proper oil level. Some much older and usually small engine two cycle bikes will only have a small set screw somewhere on the lower outside of the engine case.  If you back this screw almost all the way out, oil should seep out and you know it is properly filled. This oil is just for the transmission, as the two cycle piston gets its lubrication from the gas/oil mixture. If not at the proper level add the proper amount of the correct weight of oil.  

     Check Air Cleaners for disintegrated foam filters, obstructions, and, believe it or not, birdseed  or nests which mice often drag into intake systems (even in covered garages).  You do not want to suck them into your carburetor!

     Check to see if it has a battery in it.  Warning:  Batteries have caustic acid and potentially dangerous ignitable gasses!

     For those motorcycles with a kickstarter, it is best that it have a new battery.  It helps in the starting process. Also an old, fully discharged battery will not absorb voltage spikes and you can possibly blow out your light bulbs.  That can be a VERY expensive proposition.  If it is an electric start you will  need a new battery just to turn the starter over.

Once you put a new battery in it and turn the key on, do the turn signals, horn and brake lights work?  That is an excellent sign.  Next, does  it have gas in the tank?  Then, is the gas actually getting into the carb(s)?  The way to tell is that sometimes  carbs have a drain plug at their bottom and you can back it out and see if gas runs out.  If so, it is getting gas to the carb.  A motorcycle must have good gas no more than a year old to function properly and start.   If it is very old gas, your chances of starting are not good.

Turn the key on, and put the choke on half setting.  Make sure the engine on/off switch is in the run position!  Will the kick starter kick the engine over smoothly? Or will pushing the electric start button turn the engine over?    Do not keep the electric starter turning over the engine any more than 10 seconds at a time.  Give it a few minutes rest after 2-3 attempts.  

Give it the slightest of turns on the throttle while it is cranking.  Do not keep twisting the throttle hoping it will start.  You will probably just flood it!

If it doesn’t start, go to the next steps.  Remember if it has been sitting for years with old gas in the tank and carburetor, your chances of starting are unlikely.  Both gas tank and carburetors will need to be fully cleaned out. Carb internal jet passages are tiny, and the gas turns into varnish in the carbs which clogs them. It will not usually start, and even if you get it running, it will not idle cleanly if these passages are not clear. 

2.  Buy brand new spark plugs of the proper heat range.  Do not count on the fact that the current spark plugs in the bike are the correct ones.  Someone may have put the improper heat range or reach(length) in it.  A motorcycle parts department will have reference books to tell you which plug your model should use.  Make sure that YOU are not standing in moisture and are only touching the rubber cap as you ground it, or you may shock yourself.  Turn ignition key on.  Take the plug wire cap off an existing spark plug of the engine.  Put the new plug into the plug wire, and ground it(touch it) to the engine cylinder.  Then have someone else kick the kickstarter over.  If it is an electric start,  push the button.

If you see a spark jumping across at the electrode of the spark plug or to the engine block that is a good sign.  Sometimes you will need to do this with lights out because the spark is difficult to see.  If it is sparking, put the new plug(s) in the cylinders, open the choke half way and follow the procedure above. 

If it is not getting spark you have a problem.  If it doesn’t spark, it could be a myriad of other items.  First check for a blown  fuse, fuses are usually located close to the battery area.  Replace with the same amperage fuse!  Check for power at the ignition breaker points which are usually under a cover near the top of a cylinder.  Are the points opening and closing?  You may have to replace breaker points, and set timing. Make sure your engine start/stop switch is functioning properly and is not electrically shorting you out.  If it still will not spark, then it is more complicated than I want to get into in this FAQ. 

IF THAT DOESN'T WORK AND YOU ARE MORE MECHANICALLY, INCLINED TRY THESE STEPS

3.  Take off the gas tank.  Drain all old gas.  Get “milk stone remover” from a farm supply store.  Mix it at about 25% ratio with water.  Put that and a cup of old bolts in the tank and slosh them around a few times each day to get rid of the rust. Let this mixture sit for at least three days.  After three days, put the petcock in the open position and see if the mixture goes through the petcock.  If it is a "vacuum" petcock from some models, this approach will not work.  This type of set up requires that the petcock be hooked up to a vacuum line which pulls the mixture through the petcock.  Sometimes the "prime" setting will flow gas. The goal is to see if the petcock actually works.  You can save yourself a lot of headaches by.buying a new one(expensive $50+). Drain the tank of this mixture.  Put in fresh gas. Make certain that gas is flowing out of the petcock.    

4. Take carburetors off and completely disassemble them. Put gloves on, old gasoline is some of the nastiest stuff.  Be careful, take digital pictures or observe the process fully as their are a several small parts and they often do not want to come apart. Check the settings of the mixture and idle screws.(Best to have a repair manual ) Soak all carb parts in parts cleaner for two days.  Next, blow out all jets and passages thoroughly with compressed air.  Re-assemble.

5. Put the choke on about half way and try to start it.  Use only at maximum 1/8 turn on throttle while cranking or you will "flood" the carb.  If you get it running, let it run at low speed for about 10 minutes, then change the crankcase oil.

 6. Inspect the tires carefully, the best practice is to put new  tires on if you have any concerns about their condition.  

6.     Getting a Motorcycle Shipped

  You have many options to get a motorcycle shipped today.  Major companies do a great job, but it will really cost you--at a  minimum $600 and way up! Recently I have found that I get some very discounted shipping by going to www.uship.com    There you put your potential shipment out for bid.  Shippers have ratings just like on Ebay.  Then you evaluate whether you want to use them.  I had a GS 1100E shipped to me door to door in December from New Jersey for $350!  Regional shipments can be even less.  Isn't the internet great!  See my preferred "Shippers" page at the link listed below

7.     What Kind of Mileage Can I expect from my vintage  bike?

It will certainly depend on many factors.  How large is the engine, How many cylinders?  Is it stop and go traffic, how fast do I accelerate?  Am I really trying to get better mpg or am I riding hard?  50cc step through  bikes From Honda, Yamaha and Suzuki were rated well over 100 mpg when they were advertised new.  Scooters and small 100-150 cc bikes ridden normally in town should get close to 70-90 mpg or better.   Even the larger bikes mileage can be impressive.  I recently took my CL 350 Honda on a 70 mile trip in the country.  I had minimal stops and my speed was usually between 40-55 mph.  My mileage checked out at 62 mpg!  Warning, however, crotch rockets may only get 30-40 mpg if you ride them stoplight to stoplight flat out.  Individual results may vary!!